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The Pivot and Reverso's channels are shorter in length and thinner in width than the ATC Guide. Mike Lewis, M.A. The ATC Guide has deeper, longer, and wider-ridged outlets—the V-shaped part of the channel where the brake end of the rope exits the device. I bought a Pivot about six months ago, the first time I noticed the new device, because its advantages seemed mechanically obvious after half a lifetime of guiding with every evolving design of "self-locking" — OK, "assisted braking," with a tip of the helmet to conservative language — belay devices going all the way back to the Gigi, which changed my guiding style forever and for the better. Shop for DMM at REI. We then choose a shorter list for in-depth research and testing before finalizing our top picks. BEST USE: SPORT, … The ATC Guide has three ridges in the V-shaped outlet while the Pivot has two and a half, and the Reverso has two. During more than six months of guiding, climbing, and ski-mountaineering in diverse alpine and rock environments in Colorado, Alaska, Canada, France, Italy, and Switzerland, I compared the Pivot to other popular belay devices (especially the Petzl Reverso 4 and Black Diamond ATC Guide) in a variety of situations such as toproping, crevasse rescue, belayed skiing into steep couloirs, top-belaying multiple climbers at a time on multipitch rock and alpine climbs, rappelling, and rock rescue practice. Reviewed in the United States on August 25, 2019. However, if said fallen climber wants to be lowered, the belayer will initiate a release of the brake by levering the device with a carabiner, nut tool or a redirected sling. I had been using and loving the Petzl Reverso until the Pivot appeared. The Pivot is a really nice piece of gear DMM has made. Read honest and unbiased product reviews from our users. There's a problem loading this menu right now. UKC When there is a problem and you want things to run smoothly, the DMM Pivot will really help. Find helpful customer reviews and review ratings for DMM The Pivot - at Amazon.com. I first saw these while climbing in the UK and wow, I am bummed I bought a BD Belay before buying this. These are the products we considered that ultimately didn't make our top 5. Top quality, great selection and expert advice. I have found that the Pivot works OK even with the 7.2 mm Ice Floss, though it is slightly thinner than the Pivot's recommended lower range of 7.3 mm diameter. It still does an effective job and securing the gate closure, as well as preventing cross-loading or 'biner rotation, but simply doesn't do these things as simply and effectively as the other competition. The DMM Pivot is the only device on the market with a pivoting clip-loop for assisted braking, which adds less than an ounce of weight compared to the Petzl Reverso, the Pivot's closest competitor in … Reviewed in the United States on August 20, 2020, Pivot is sweet and Biner hole for leverage is more, Reviewed in the United States on November 8, 2019. Standing out from the crowd due to the unique pivoting anchor point connection, the DMM Pivot prevents rope jamming and … Try the new Pivot belay device from DMM. The set-up to lower a second using the DMM Pivot. Live Chat Contact Check Order Status. DMM is a class brand and I wish there was more of it here on the west coast of the US! Shop DMM Pivot | Be The First To Review DMM Pivot + Free Shipping over $49. With a thin-enough rope the weighted climber-side of the rope can slip to the side of the brake-end and get pinched in the rope channel; with a simple 180-degree twist of the carabiner, the assisted brake will release—not good. You can release the Pivot with just your fingers unless the second's full weight is hanging on the rope, but if you use your nut tool you will have very smooth control in any case. Qualified orders eligible for FREE S&H and FREE RETURNS. It's an improvement over a tried a true device that should see more popularity. Higher friction when belaying thick ropes. To calculate the overall star rating and percentage breakdown by star, we don’t use a simple average. Some devices simply locked up and did not lower at all. With similar operation to the more common Black Diamond ATC Guide and Petzl Reverso, the Pivot offers controlled, smooth lowering of your partner. Reviewed in the United States on May 5, 2019. Shop DMM Pivot/Phantom HMS Set | Be The First To Review DMM Pivot/Phantom HMS Set + Free Shipping over $49. The GiGi is a major struggle to release, and then it lets go all at once. I love DMM for a number of reasons. Great belay device. Lightweight, ease of releasing the assisted braking function, belays thin ropes well, Cons: After viewing product detail pages, look here to find an easy way to navigate back to pages you are interested in. Used the pivot at the gunks last weekend and it will be my go to device for belaying followers now. It basically operates like any other ATC with friction grooves until you have to lower the second. For most weekend warriors multipitch climbing in a team of two, this is not a concern. Overall, I found the Pivot to be a solid piece of equipment, and until a plaquette style belay/rappel device comes out that is light, requires little effort to belay in guide mode, belays both thin and thick ropes well, releases from an assisted brake with ease, and belays and rappels smoothly, the DMM Pivot will stand as a gold-standard item. Review: Edelrid Giga Jul Belay Device A prototype of the Edelrid Giga Jul that was on display at the 2018 Summer OR show . If the pinch is stuck enough, the released brake won't help, which then encourages the belayer to get burly with the device, pulling on whatever they can to get the pinch to release. In real-time scenarios and improvised testing stations at my local climbing gym, in the field, and at my home, I tested the efficiency and ease of releasing the various assisted braking systems. Prime members enjoy FREE Delivery and exclusive access to music, movies, TV shows, original audio series, and Kindle books. The Pivot's swiveling loop allows its angle to adjust to increase the ease of releasing the brake and lowering a seconding climber from an anchor above. Enjoy easy rope control when you're on belay with the lightweight DMM Pivot belay device, especially when you're lowering in guide mode. You can still see all customer reviews for the product. The megaJul is way more versatile and has the "autoblock" feature. Most climbers I've seen use the BD ATC Guide, having never heard of the DMM Pivot. Here's a longer and more detailed review about the DMM Pivot (written by an AMGA Rock and Alpine Guide) And like most climbing techniques, it's a better show than to tell. In common-speak, we are talking about "auto-locking" or "self-locking" plate devices such as the DMM Pivot. On the positive side, the Pivot (and Reverso) offers more friction and holding power than the ATC Guide, especially when you're using thinner ropes, 9.2mm in diameter and smaller (DMM says the Pivot can be used for ropes 7.3mm to 11mm). Nice review! Highly recommend, Reviewed in the United States on May 10, 2016. Love the DMM pivot for belaying from above!! Select Your Cookie Preferences. The Pivot is well-designed, highly functional, and has become my go-to device. Meticulously researched and developed to provide optimum performance both belaying from the harness, and direct from the anchor. Login with your username and password below. The Pivot provides smooth paying out, a secure and confident catch, and controlled lowering. Most importantly, the Pivot is the easiest of the "guide mode" devices when it comes to lowering the second -- either a few inches or all the way down. The Pivot has become a regular tool in my guiding and climbing. Most importantly, the Pivot is the easiest of the "guide mode" devices when it comes to lowering the second -- either a few inches or all the way down. The GiGi … Note: Manufacturers and guides recommend some type of back-up to be in place before releasing the assisted braking function, such as an autoblock on the brake rope attached to the belayer. No more backup prusiks or other shenanigans to slow you down. is an AMGA Certified Rock and Alpine Guide living in Estes Park, Colorado. Lowering was very easy and smooth. Providing smooth rope control and a secure and confident catch, the Pivot Belay Device from DMM is a revolutionary device which uses a pivot solution to ensure rope release with less force and gain greater control when lowering. Weight: 6.1 oz. Releasing the brake using leverage with a nut tool (multiple sizes of nut tools worked, which is not true for all devices on the market), a carabiner, or redirected sling required noticeably less bicep effort and manipulation than other devices. Reviewed in the United States on July 13, 2018. My experience totally agrees with yours. Meticulously researched and developed to provide optimum performance both belaying from the harness, and direct from the anchor. This is the whole point of the pivot feature and it works very well. 1 of 3 new belay devices for 2015, the DMM Pivot takes a uniquely simple approach to solving a problem that has plagued "guide mode" belay devices since they were invented. Accepting ropes 7.5mm – 11mm it’s tied for the widest rope range of all the guide-mode tubular devices (same as Petzl’s Reverso 4 and Simond’s Tucan 2).DMM does add that the Pivot is optimized for ropes 8mm – 10.5mm, which is a nice way of saying ropes larger than 10.5mm may need to be squished into the device and they won’t feed quite as smoothly. I specifically choose the Pivot when I am belaying from above using ropes less than 9.2mm in diameter, and when I know rappels will be part of the descent. Once the seconding climber begins climbing again after a fall, the belayer simply pulls (sometimes hard) the pinched rope out from the V-shaped groove and all is well. When weighted, the climber's end pinches the brake-end and keeps the climber from falling. The design of the Pivot's rope channels (the two holes where a bight of rope goes through) is similar to the Petzl Reverso 4 and quite different from the Black Diamond ATC Guide. Highly recommended and using it in guide mode is also recommended, just try it out first and be prepared for the rope to release faster than you expect. Quality construction. Top notch products, great customer service, and perhaps best of all, enormous attention to detail and quality. This is the best of several devices when it comes to belaying two seconds simultaneously off an anchor. It may be necessary to use a backup on the brake-side of the rope to ensure control. See the American Alpine Club's Accidents in North American Mountaineering 2016, Fall on Rock: Lowering Error, P. 63. In the modern climbing era it's become regular practice on multipitch routes to belay from above with a belay device that has an assisted-braking function. I practiced releasing the brake using carabiners, nut tools, and redirected slings with one and two climbers at a time, and lowering climbers full pitch lengths. 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